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The HNT Gordon Block Plane







These are designed and built by Terry Gordon in Australia. A one-piece wooden construction, they are available in a variety of timbers, the current standard form being Gidgee. The review plane was Ironwood.

The following data comes from the HNT Gordon website:

SIZE: 175mm long x 54mm wide x 38mm high.
AVERAGE WEIGHT:0.8Kg
BLADE: 1 1/2 inches wide x 1/8 inch thick x 80mm long tool steel Rc 62-64.
ABUTMENT: Brass only.
MOUTH: Brass rub plate.
BLADE PITCH: 55 degrees for planing or 85 degrees for scraping.
PURPOSE: General purpose planing or trimming of any small pieces of timber, particularly hardwood end grain. Alternate use as a cabinet scraper for cranky grain. Easily used in one hand



In the hand

I was very impressed by this plane. My initial expectation was that it would be clunky. However it was very comfortable in the hand. The rear knob fitted snugly into the web of my hand, the plane balanced well, and it felt solid and secure.





Adjusting the blade

Adjustments are made with a mallet.





Terry supplies the following tutorial or his website:



Step 1

This photo shows a 'blade setting block' which is simply a small piece of hard wood 6" x 2" x 1" planed perfectly flat. Some tips:

  • For a fine blade setting ensure the wood is super hard.

  • Check the block is perfectly flat over its length and across its width.

Step 2

Sit the plane on the setting block as shown. Place the blade in position and using your index finger ensure the blade is sitting against the bed and hold the plane body
to stop it from moving.

Step 3

Place the wedge loosely into position and with a small hammer tap the wedge firmly into position using a series of taps until the wedge takes up. Some tips:

  • Hit the wedge in the middle

  • A series of small taps is better than one big tap

  • Don't move the plane when setting the wedge

  • Check the blade is secure before use

  • If blade is loose you need to hit the wedge harder

  • If the blade sets to deep, your setting block needs to be a harder piece of wood

  • If your blade sets out of level either your setting block is not flat or you are hitting the wedge more on one side than the other.


Please note: This is the initial setting of the blade only, and you are not restricted to this method alone. This method will get you going and ensure you are not frustrated as you learn how to use your classic wooden plane. But to get the best out of your plane you do need to learn how to make tiny changes to the depth of cut by tapping the body or blade with a small hammer, which is fully explained in the instructions that come with the plane. 
      



Performance

With its high bed, this plane is best suited to planing face- and edge grain. In many ways it would make a wonderful small smoother. It is ideal for trimming bevels or creating a quick chamfer on edges.

Fine shavings on a Pine edge



One-handed beveling



Planing hard, interlinked Jarrah



Planing Pine end grain is a challenge for any block plane

End grain planing is not this plane's forte, but it does a satisfactory job as long as the blade is sharp.

Impressions

This is a great block plane for the workshop or general trim work. If the majority of use you seek in a block plane focuses on face- and edge grain rather than end grain, then this could be the plane for you. It can handle difficult grain exceptionally well. It can substitute as a small smoother.

It is one of the easier blades to hone as it is thick and sets bevel down. This makes it easy to freehand, if you prefer. Further, the cutting angle is not dependent on the bevel angle.

Setting the blade is considerably easier than one might imagine. Do not let this area intimidate you. If you have not used a woodie before, then the learning period should not take longer than a couple of minutes. Adjustments are easier with practice and become second nature within a short while.



Derek Cohen

August 2008